TICINO TREKS

Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586m)
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Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586m)

Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586m)

Country

Nepal

Duration

50 days

Max Altitude

8,586 m

Group Size

5 Person

Difficulty

extreme

Best Seasons

Autumn

Description

The Kanchenjunga Expedition is a true test of endurance and skill, offering climbers an opportunity to conquer the world’s third-highest peak. Towering at 8,586m, Kanchenjunga is a sacred mountain straddling the Nepal-India border, known for its remote and challenging terrain. Unlike the more commercialized peaks, this expedition takes you deep into the wilderness, through pristine forests, isolated valleys, and high-altitude glaciers, making it one of the most rewarding mountaineering experiences.

Ticino Treks and Expedition provides an expertly guided journey to this formidable peak, ensuring the highest level of safety and support. With a dedicated team of seasoned Sherpa guides, climbers will have the best chance of successfully reaching the summit. The route follows the South-West Face, a highly technical climb requiring ice climbing, rock climbing, and high-altitude navigation. Throughout the expedition, our team ensures proper acclimatization, technical training, and logistical support to maximize success while prioritizing climber safety.

The expedition begins with a trek through the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, where climbers encounter diverse wildlife, dense rhododendron forests, and breathtaking landscapes. As the journey progresses, the route becomes more rugged, leading to Kanchenjunga Base Camp before ascending through a series of high camps toward the summit. The final push takes climbers through a steep and icy ridge to the summit, offering a panoramic view of the Himalayas stretching into Tibet, Bhutan, and India.

Kanchenjunga is not just a climb, it is an adventure into one of the great mountaineering frontiers. For experienced climbers seeking a challenging, remote, and awe-inspiring ascent, this expedition provides an unparalleled experience. Join Ticino Treks and Expedition on this journey to one of the world’s most magnificent peaks.

Trip Notes: 

Best Time to Visit:

  • Spring (March-April): Ideal weather conditions for trekking and climbing, with stable temperatures and clear skies.

  • Autumn (October-November): Another optimal window with favorable weather, offering excellent visibility and climbing conditions.

 

Expedition Highlights:

  • Kanchenjunga Base Camp (5,180m): The starting point of the expedition, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers.

  • Kanchenjunga Conservation Area: A UNESCO-listed site rich in biodiversity, home to rare species like the Red Panda and snow leopard.

  • Taplejung District: A culturally rich region in Nepal, where the trek begins, showcasing traditional villages and Sherpa culture.

  • North Col (7,200m): A challenging and technical section of the climb, featuring mixed rock and ice terrain.

  • Khangchendzonga National Park (India): A protected area on the Indian side of Kanchenjunga, known for its stunning landscapes and wildlife.

 

Climbing Route:

The most common route for summiting Mt. Kanchenjunga is the North Face Route, which involves:

  1. Trekking through the Taplejung District and entering the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area.

  2. Establishing Base Camp at 5,180 meters.

  3. Navigating technical sections, including mixed rock and ice climbs to the North Col.

  4. A steady 1,500-meter ascent to the summit, offering stunning views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.

 

Difficulty Level:

This expedition is highly technical and physically demanding, requiring:

  • Advanced mountaineering skills: Ice climbing, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue.

  • Excellent physical fitness: Cardiovascular endurance, strength, and stamina.

  • Mental resilience: Ability to handle extreme altitude, harsh weather, and prolonged exposure to high-altitude conditions.

 

Key Challenges:

  • Altitude Sickness: Proper acclimatization is critical to avoid life-threatening conditions like HAPE or HACE.

  • Technical Terrain: The climb involves navigating steep ice walls, crevasses, and mixed rock and ice sections.

  • Weather Conditions: Sudden storms, high winds, and extreme cold can make the climb more perilous.

  • Remote Location: The expedition takes place in a remote region, requiring self-sufficiency and careful planning.

 

Training & Preparation:

  • Physical Fitness: Focus on cardiovascular endurance, strength training, and long-distance hiking.

  • Altitude Training: Acclimatize with climbs to high-altitude peaks like Island Peak or Mera Peak.

  • Technical Skills: Practice ice climbing, rope techniques, and glacier travel.

  • Mental Preparation: Develop resilience to handle extreme conditions and prolonged physical exertion.

 

Safety Considerations:

  • Avalanches: The region is prone to avalanches, especially near steep ice sections.

  • Summit Push: The final ascent requires careful planning, with attention to weather conditions and oxygen usage.

  • Climbing Equipment: Essential gear includes:

    • Climbing boots, crampons, and ice axes.

    • Harnesses, ropes, and helmets.

    • High-altitude sleeping bags and tents.

    • Supplemental oxygen for higher elevations.

 

Permits Required:

  • Kanchenjunga Conservation Area Permit: Required for entry into the conservation area.

  • Climbing Permit for Mt. Kanchenjunga: Issued by the government of Nepal.

  • TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) Card: Issued by the Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN).

 

Important Notes:

  • Physical Fitness & Experience: This is a highly demanding expedition, suitable only for experienced climbers with excellent physical and mental conditioning.

  • Weather & Conditions: Be prepared for extreme cold, high winds, and sudden weather changes.

  • Summit Timeframe: Summit attempts are typically made during the spring (April-May) or autumn (October-November) seasons, depending on weather conditions.

Environmental Responsibility: Follow Leave No Trace principles to preserve the pristine environment of the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area.

Itineraries

Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, our team will meet you and transfer you to your hotel. After checking in, you'll have time to rest and explore the vibrant streets of Kathmandu. In the evening, we will host a welcome dinner and provide an overview of the expedition. Overnight stay at a hotel.

 

We will conduct a full-day briefing on the Kanchenjunga Expedition, discussing logistics, safety protocols, and equipment checks. You’ll have the opportunity to meet your fellow climbers and ask questions. In the afternoon, you can explore Kathmandu’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, such as Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) and Boudhanath Stupa.

 

We step out on a long but scenic drive through Nepal’s countryside, passing terraced fields, rivers, and picturesque villages. This journey introduces us to the diverse landscapes of eastern Nepal. Overnight stay in a local lodge.

 

Our trek begins with a gradual ascent through lush forests and terraced farmlands. We pass through small settlements and cross suspension bridges before reaching Sikaicha.

 

Today’s trek involves ascending through mixed forests, with occasional glimpses of snow-capped peaks. We encounter traditional Limbu and Rai villages, where we get a taste of the local culture.

 

The trail winds through beautiful rhododendron and bamboo forests. We cross multiple suspension bridges over fast-flowing rivers and reach Mamankhe, a lively village known for its traditional houses and warm hospitality.

 

We enter a more remote region, following undulating trails through subtropical forests. The landscape becomes increasingly rugged as we approach Yamphudin, a small Sherpa settlement.

 

Leaving behind cultivated fields, we ascend steep trails through dense forests of pine and rhododendron. The higher we go, the more dramatic the views become.

 

A physically demanding day as we ascend into alpine terrain. We pass through yak pastures and enjoy breathtaking views of the Kanchenjunga massif.

 

We continue through high-altitude landscapes, following glacial rivers and moraine ridges. Tseram provides a spectacular view of the surrounding peaks.

 

Today’s route takes us past high-altitude lakes and glacial moraines. We reach Ramche, where we set up camp and prepare for the final push towards Base Camp.

A short but challenging trek over rugged terrain. We make our final approach to Kanchenjunga’s glacial region, where the air is noticeably thinner.

 

After 2 weeks of trekking, we will arrive at Base Camp. The breathtaking view of Kanchenjunga’s towering peaks makes this a rewarding moment.

Over the next few weeks, we conduct multiple rotations between higher camps for acclimatization. The climb involves navigating icefalls, steep snow slopes, and exposed ridges. Our summit push depends on weather conditions and team readiness. On summit day, we ascend in the early hours to reach the top, where we take in panoramic views before descending to lower camps.

 

The descent begins as we retrace our steps to lower altitudes.

We pass through glacial valleys and rocky trails as we continue our descent.

 

Returning to familiar villages, we begin to notice the change in altitude and vegetation.

 

A long day of trekking through dense forests and terraced farmlands.

 

We gradually descend into warmer climates, enjoying the last stretch of the trek.

 

Our final trekking day, descending through villages and fields to reach Ghopetar.

 

After the long trek, we take a scenic flight back to the capital. The evening is free to rest or explore the city.

 

We visit iconic sites like Pashupatinath Temple and Patan Durbar Square. You’ll also have time for souvenir shopping in Thamel.

 

After an incredible adventure, we transfer you to the airport for your international flight home.

 

Cost Includes

  • Accommodation & Permits

    • Accommodation in Kathmandu for pre-expedition briefing and post-expedition rest

    • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

    • Mount Everest Climbing Permit

    • TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) Card

    • Everest National Park Permit

    Transportation

    • Domestic flights (Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu) for both clients and staff

    • Ground transportation for expedition logistics

    • Airport transfers (International & domestic)

    Expedition Logistics & Personnel

    • Government Liaison Officer charges

    • Experienced Expedition Guide

    • Cook & kitchen staff

    • Assistant Climbing Guide (1 per client)

    • Porters to carry loads & baggage

    • Porter’s equipment & insurance

    • Insurance (medical & rescue) for all staff & porters

    • Salaries, lodging, food, and wages for staff & porters

    Accommodation & Tents

    • Teahouse/lodge accommodation during the trek

    • Individual tent (with mattress & pillow) at Base Camp and higher camps

    • Dining tent, kitchen tent, store tent, toilet & shower tent

    • High-altitude tents for climbing camps

    Food & Supplies

    • All meals for members & staff during the expedition & trekking

    • Quality high-altitude dried food & individual packet food

    • EPI gas with burner for high camps

    • Oxygen cylinder & mask regulator for emergencies

    • Duffel bag for packing climbing/trekking gear

    Climbing & Safety Equipment

    • All necessary group climbing gear (excluding personal climbing gear)

    • First Aid Kit for all

    • High-altitude climbing equipment, including ropes, ice axes, harnesses, etc.

    Communication & Power Supply

    • A walkie-talkie set for communication

    • Satellite phone (pay call basis) for emergency communication

    • Solar panel for charging (camera, sat phone, dining tent lighting)

Cost Excludes

  • Accommodation & Meals

    • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)

    • Additional food & drinks beyond standard meals, including snacks, packed food, energy drinks, aerated drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, and chocolates

    Personal Equipment & Gear

    • Clothing, packing bags, and personal trekking/climbing gear

    • Personal medical kit

    • Personal climbing gear (e.g., climbing boots, gloves, harness)

    Communication & Technology

    • Costs related to landlines, mobile phones, satellite phones, internet, walkie-talkies, and filming permits (if using special cameras)

    Insurance & Medical Costs

    • Rescue, repatriation, hospitalization, medical tests & medicines

    • Travel insurance, medical insurance & emergency rescue evacuation

    • Helicopter rescue services (if required)

    Additional Transportation & Services

    • Only transportation listed in the itinerary is covered

    • Extra travel distances will be charged

    • Any additional staff not mentioned in the package (e.g., extra guides, assistants, etc.)

    Climbing Guide Summit Bonus

    • Summit bonus for Sherpa guide ($800 USD minimum per guide)

    Customs & Visa

    • Nepal customs duty for the import of expedition equipment

    • Nepal entry visa fee (easily available on arrival)

    Miscellaneous Expenses

    • Personal expenses such as laundry services, gifts, souvenirs, tips, airfare for international flights, and any extra services, products, or activities not mentioned in the itinerary

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