Mt. Dhaulagiri is the seventh-highest peak in the world and the sixth-highest peak of Nepal. This mountain is said to be one of the most interesting and most formidable peaks among the 8000-meter peaks. Mt. Dhaulagiri stands at an elevation of about 8,167m. This peak has a deep meaning to it; it means “white mountain,” but also has another meaning as the mountain of storms and sorrows. This mountain lies in the north-west region of Nepal in the Myagdi district. This mountain extends about 120km from the Kaligandaki River to the Bheri River in the west. Dhaulagiri is known as one of the most fascinating peaks to climb. The majority of people follow the first route, which is also known as the “Normal Route.” The Northeast route is the normal route where most of the trekking is done. The first one to climb this extraordinary mountain was the team of Swiss/Austrian Mountaineers that was led by Kurt Diemberger. They reached the top of the mountain on 13th May 1960. Since all of the Dhaulagiri routes are challenging, only the professionals seem to have an interest in this mountain.

48 days are required to complete the Dhaulagiri Expedition in total. Our expedition starts with the final preparation in Kathmandu. We leave Kathmandu and drive to Darbang. From Darbang, we have to trek all the way up to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp, which is at an elevation of 4700m. A total of 30 days is required to reach the summit of Mt. Dhaulagiri. We set an overall of 4 camps before the summit at elevations of about 5900m, 6400m, 7200m, and 7500m. When we return from our journey, we only walk for two days to Jomsom, and we take a flight to Pokhara. We drive to Kathmandu from Pokhara. The best season to plan this wonderful expedition is Spring and Autumn. If you are looking for fewer crowds and traffic, you can plan your expedition in early winter as well. Other expeditions like Mt. Makalu, Mt. Annapurna are also available and are the best expedition options in Nepal.

The Dhaulagiri Expedition offers a true mountaineering experience in the Himalayas, requiring skill and climbing expertise in snow, ice, and glacier conditions. Acclimatization is crucial at high altitude to avoid altitude sickness, and climbers will rely on oxygen as they ascend toward the summit. Along the route, trekkers encounter dramatic weather changes, avalanche risks, and the challenge of navigating through campsites set at high elevations. With the support of Sherpas, climbers tackle a demanding alpine environment, using ropes for safety and tackling extreme conditions to ultimately reach the summit of Dhaulagiri at 8,167m. The expedition is a true test of endurance, preparation, and adventure.

Trip Notes

Best Time to Trek & Climb:

• Spring (April-May): Ideal for clear skies, stable weather conditions, and perfect for trekking and climbing.

• Autumn (October-November): A great season with dry conditions, allowing stunning views of the Dhaulagiri range and surrounding peaks.

• Early Winter (December): For those seeking less crowded routes, though the weather can be colder and challenging.

Permits Required:

• Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit

• TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) Card

• Dhaulagiri Expedition Climbing Permit

Experience Needed:

• Basic mountaineering skills (using ice axe, crampons, ropes, and harness).

• High-altitude trekking experience and fitness are required for the challenging terrain.

• Previous trekking experience, especially in high-altitude conditions, is beneficial.

Acclimatization & Altitude Sickness:

• Gradual ascent with rest days is crucial to help acclimate to higher altitudes.

• Proper hydration, rest, and medication (like Diamox) are important for preventing altitude sickness.

• Listen to your body and take appropriate rest whenever needed.

Route Overview:

• The Dhaulagiri Expedition starts with arrival and preparation in Kathmandu.

• Drive to Darbang and begin the trek to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,700 m), crossing several scenic villages and beautiful landscapes.

• The climbing period lasts for approximately 30 days, with acclimatization and progressively higher camps (at 5,900 m, 6,400 m, 7,200 m, and 7,500 m) before attempting the summit.

• After reaching the summit, return to Jomsom in two days and fly back to Pokhara, followed by a drive back to Kathmandu.

Accommodation:

• Kathmandu: Hotel accommodation on arrival and during expedition preparation.

• Tented camps: At various points during the trek and at Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

• Teahouses: Accommodation during the trek portion up to base camp.

Duration & Camps:

• Total duration: 48 days, including acclimatization, trekking, climbing, and return.

• Climbing period (Days 11-41): Involves progressively higher camps to the summit, focusing on gradual acclimatization and summit attempts.

Safety Tips:

• Acclimatization is essential for summit success. Plan for several rest days at higher altitudes.

• Always follow the instructions of experienced guides and Sherpas.

• Be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions. Pack accordingly with warm clothing and layers, even in summer months.

• Watch for signs of altitude sickness (headache, nausea, dizziness) and descend if symptoms worsen.

Cultural & Natural Highlights:

• Stunning mountain views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and other Himalayan peaks.

• Explore the beauty of the Dhaulagiri region, passing through picturesque villages and lush forests.

Experience the warm hospitality of the Sherpa and local communities.