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Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition (8,188m)
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Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition (8,188m)

Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition (8,188m)

Country

Nepal

Duration

43 days

Max Altitude

8,188m

Group Size

2 - 15 Person

Difficulty

extreme

Best Seasons

Spring and Autumn

Description

If you are looking to climb a mountain above 8,000 meters, then Mt. Cho-Oyu is one of them, ranking 6th among the 8,000-meter mountains. The Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition is a well-known peak for climbers, located on the Nepal-Tibet border, approximately 70 kilometers west of Mt. Everest. Climbing Mt. Cho-Oyu from the Tibetan side is considered one of the most straightforward routes, with a higher success rate. The normal route ascends the northwest face, starting from the Tibetan side near Nangpa La, an ancient trading route to Nepal. In Tibet, this mountain is also known as the "Turquoise Goddess."

The Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition journey begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa, followed by an overland drive. Afterward, the trek leads through a realm of glaciers and towering peaks before reaching the Base Camp. The ascent involves progressing through the Advanced Base Camp and three higher camps before reaching the summit push. The route includes technical sections such as glacier traverse, icefall, snowfields, and crevasse crossings. Climbers rely on fixed ropes for safety and Sherpa support for carrying loads and setting up camps.

Historically, mountaineers have played a key role in measuring the height of Mt. Cho-Oyu. Pioneers like Dyhrenfurth and Shipton contributed to determining its elevation, leading to its recognition as the sixth-highest peak in the world at 8,188m. The first Nepali climber to summit Mt. Cho-Oyu was Ang Phiri Sherpa, who successfully reached the top on April 29, 1987.

Our Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition itinerary allows for ample acclimatization and expedition logistics, ensuring climbers are well-prepared for the extreme conditions. The best seasons for Mt. Cho-Oyu Expeditions are March to May and September to December, when weather conditions are more stable. During the climb, essential elements such as oxygen supply, climbing gear, and proper route finding techniques play a crucial role in a successful ascent.

Travel Notes:

Best Time to Trek & Climb

  • Spring (April-May): Ideal for clear skies and stable weather conditions.

  • Autumn (October-November): A great season with dry conditions, allowing clear mountain views.

Permits Required:

  • Tibet Travel Permit (for entry into Lhasa and travel across Tibet).

  • Chinese Visa (for travelers entering Tibet).

  • Cho Oyu Base Camp Permit (required for base camp access).

  • Mountaineering Permit (for summit attempts, issued by the Chinese Mountaineering Association).

Experience Needed:

  • Basic mountaineering skills (using ice axe, crampons, and ropes).

  • High-altitude trekking experience and fitness are required.

  • Previous trekking and summit attempts are beneficial.

Acclimatization & Altitude Sickness:

  • Rest days and gradual ascent are essential to acclimate trekkers to high altitudes.

  • Proper hydration, rest, and medication are crucial to prevent altitude sickness.

Route Overview:
The expedition begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa. After a leisurely day in Kathmandu, the journey continues with a mix of driving and trekking across Tibet, including stops in Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Shigatse, Xegar, and ultimately, the Chinese Base Camp. The trek then leads to Cho Oyu Base Camp, with a period dedicated to climbing to the summit of Cho Oyu. After the summit attempt, trekkers return to Lhasa before flying back to Kathmandu.

Accommodation:

  • Hotels in Kathmandu, Lhasa, Shigatse, and Xegar.

  • Tented camps are at higher altitudes, particularly near the Chinese Base Camp and the Cho Oyu Base Camp.

Duration & Camps:

  • 46 days in total, including trekking, acclimatization, summit attempt, and return.

  • Tented camps are used for overnight stays during climbing periods at higher altitudes.

Safety Tips:

  • Acclimatization is key to ensuring summit success and safety.

  • Use experienced guides and porters for safe navigation and climbing.

  • Be prepared for variable weather conditions and potential challenges, including difficult terrain and altitude-related issues.

Cultural & Natural Highlights:

  • Explore Tibetan culture and visit significant historical sites in Lhasa, including the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple.

  • Beautiful landscapes of the Tibetan Plateau with views of Cho Oyu and other surrounding peaks.

  • Enjoy interactions with the local Tibetan people, known for their warm hospitality and traditions.

 

Itineraries

Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, our team will meet you and transfer you to the hotel. You’ll have time to rest or explore the bustling streets of Thamel. In the evening, we’ll gather for a welcome dinner and a briefing about the expedition. Overnight in Kathmandu.

 

Today is dedicated to final preparations—checking gear, processing Chinese and climbing permits, and handling logistical matters. If time allows, we’ll visit a few of Kathmandu’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, such as Swayambhunath or Boudhanath. Overnight in Kathmandu.

 

We take a scenic flight across the Himalayas into Tibet, landing in the ancient city of Lhasa. After checking into our hotel, you can explore the local surroundings or rest to begin acclimatizing. Overnight in Lhasa.

 

We spend the day exploring Lhasa’s cultural landmarks, including the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple. This also helps with gradual acclimatization to the altitude. Overnight in Lhasa.

 

Our overland journey begins with a beautiful drive across high plateaus to Shigatse, the second-largest city in Tibet. We pass through mountain passes with views of snow-capped peaks. Overnight in a hotel.

 

Continuing westward, we travel to Xegar. The scenery becomes more dramatic as we move closer to the Himalayas. This remote settlement offers stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere. Overnight in a hotel or guesthouse.

 

We drive to the Chinese Base Camp for Cho Oyu. Upon arrival, we set up our base and begin preparations for the trek to Advanced Base Camp. Overnight in tents.

 

We spend a couple of days here for proper acclimatization. Light hikes around the area help prepare us for the higher altitudes to come. Our team will also organize equipment and loads for the yaks. Overnight in tents.

We begin our approach toward Advanced Base Camp. The trail is mostly on rocky and moraine-covered terrain. After a steady day of walking, we set camp at Intermediate Camp. Overnight in tents.

 

We continue to Advanced Base Camp, our primary staging ground for the climb. The views here are spectacular, and the route ahead to the summit is clearly visible. We begin settling in and preparing for the climbing period. Overnight in tents.

 

We begin our acclimatization rotations and establish the higher camps. The standard route includes:

  • Camp I (6,400m): Reached via a gentle glacier climb.

  • Camp II (7,000m): Positioned below a steep ice cliff and the Yellow Band.

  • Camp III (7,450m): High camp used for the summit push, located on a broad snow plateau.

The summit day is long and challenging but technically moderate, involving crevassed terrain and steep snow slopes. Weather conditions will guide the exact summit schedule. We descend to lower camps after the summit and return to Base Camp for rest and celebration.

 

We pack up and retrace our steps back down the valley to the Chinese Base Camp. It’s a relaxed descent after the intense climbing period. Overnight in tents.

 

We begin our return journey with a drive across the Tibetan plateau to Shigatse, enjoying the wide landscapes and distant peaks along the way. Overnight in a hotel.

 

Continuing our drive eastward, we arrive back in Lhasa for some rest and reflection after the expedition. Overnight in a hotel.

We board our flight across the Himalayas back to Kathmandu. After check-in at the hotel, the rest of the day is free for shopping, relaxing, or celebrating with your team. Overnight in Kathmandu.

 

A buffer day in case of flight delays or other unforeseen circumstances. You can also enjoy more sightseeing or a visit to a local spa. Overnight in Kathmandu.

 

After breakfast, we’ll transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight home. Thank you for joining us for this unforgettable expedition to Cho Oyu.

 

Cost Includes

  • Accommodation & Permits:

    • Accommodation in Kathmandu (pre- & post-expedition).

    • Tibet Travel Permit (for entry into Lhasa and travel across Tibet).

    • Chinese Visa for entry into Tibet.

    • Cho Oyu Base Camp Permit.

    • Mountaineering Permit for Cho Oyu (issued by the Chinese Mountaineering Association).

    Transportation:

    • Domestic flights (Kathmandu – Lhasa – Kathmandu) for climbers and staff.

    • Airport transfers (international & domestic).

    • Ground transportation for expedition logistics (including travel within Tibet and base camps).

    Expedition Logistics & Personnel:

    • Government Liaison Officer charges.

    • Experienced Expedition Leader and Climbing Sherpas.

    • Cook and kitchen staff.

    • Assistant Climbing Guide (1 per client).

    • Porters for load carrying.

    • Insurance (medical & rescue) for all staff and porters.

    • Salaries, lodging, food, and wages for staff and porters.

    Accommodation & Tents:

    • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu and Lhasa.

    • Tented camps at higher altitudes (including base camps and climbing camps).

    • Individual tents at Base Camp & higher camps (with mattress & pillow).

    • Dining, kitchen, storage, toilet, and shower tents.

    • High-altitude tents for climbing camps.

    Food & Supplies:

    • All meals during the trek and expedition.

    • Quality high-altitude food & energy packets.

    • EPI gas & burners for high-altitude cooking.

    • Oxygen cylinder & mask regulator for emergency use.

    • Duffel bag for packing trekking/climbing gear.

    Climbing & Safety Equipment:

    • Group climbing gear (excluding personal climbing gear).

    • First Aid Kit.

    • High-altitude climbing equipment (ropes, ice axes, harnesses, crampons, etc.).

    • Communication equipment (walkie-talkie set).

    • Satellite phone (pay call basis) for emergency use.

    • Solar panel for charging electronics.

Cost Excludes

  • Accommodation & Meals:

    • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu (except for farewell dinner).

    • Additional food & beverages beyond standard meals (snacks, energy drinks, alcohol, etc.).

    Personal Equipment & Gear:

    • Personal trekking/climbing gear (clothing, harness, gloves, boots, etc.).

    • Personal medical kit.

    • Personal climbing equipment (ice axe, helmet, etc.).

    Communication & Technology:

    • Personal landline, mobile, satellite phone, and internet expenses.

    • Filming permits (if required for special equipment).

    Insurance & Medical Costs:

    • Personal medical & travel insurance.

    • Emergency rescue evacuation.

    • Hospitalization, medical tests, and medicines.

    • Helicopter rescue services (if needed).

    Additional Transportation & Services:

    • Only transportation listed in the itinerary is covered.

    • Extra travel distances beyond the itinerary will be charged.

    • Additional guides or porters are not mentioned in the package.

    Climbing Guide Summit Bonus:

    • Summit bonus for Sherpa guide ($800 USD minimum per guide).

    Customs & Visa:

    • Nepal customs duty for imported expedition equipment.

    • Nepal entry visa fee (available on arrival).

    Miscellaneous Expenses:

    • Personal expenses (laundry, souvenirs, tips, etc.).

    • International airfare.

    • Any additional services not mentioned in the itinerary.

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