Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain among the above 8,000 meters mountains with 8,485 meters. Mt. Makalu lies between the border of Nepal and Tibet. Mt. Makalu 19 km southeast of Mount Everest whose shape is looks like a four-sided Pyramid.
Mt. Makalu was first climbed by a party of French in 1955. In 1921 British Everest reconnaissance was a first who mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side of Mt. Makalu. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu in 1951. They approached the peak a year after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition. In 1954 US team was the first to attempt on mount Makalu and they trekked all the way from the Indian border to near Biratnagar. At the same time, the British team advanced the mountain, but this expedition was dropped when Hillary became suddenly seriously ill and had to be left. In the autumn of 1954, a French team tried the peak. In the following spring they successfully climbings were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days.
The routes are divided into 4 parts to go Mt. Makalu. The lower parts begin from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climb to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part expands from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degrees steep and that extends up to 6,500 meters height.
The third section is an ice-rock wall, along with the 50 to 55 degrees steep and that expands to 7,400 meters height. The fourth or final section begins from 70 to 75 degrees elevation’s rock pillar which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the mountain. From 5,800 meters to 6,100 meters rope is typically fixed.
