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Broad Peak Expedition (8,051m)
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Broad Peak Expedition (8,051m)

Broad Peak Expedition (8,051m)

Country

Pakistan

Duration

53 days

Max Altitude

8051

Group Size

2 - 15 Person

Difficulty

extreme

Best Seasons

Summer (June to August)

Description

Broad Peak (8,051m), located in the Karakoram Range on the Pakistan-China border, is the twelfth-highest mountain on Earth and part of the Gasherbrum massif. Named for its vast summit ridge over 1.5 kilometers long, Broad Peak lives up to its name with three summits: the Main (8,051m), Central (8,016m), and North (7,550m). The mountain stands just 8km from K2 and is visible from Concordia, the junction of the Baltoro Glacier and Godwin-Austen Glacier. The first successful ascent was made by an Austrian team in 1957.

The Broad Peak Expedition is a serious high-altitude climb, offering mountaineers a technically challenging but more accessible 8000m summit compared to K2. The route follows a mix of glacier, snow, and exposed ridge terrain. Although it is less technically demanding than nearby K2, extreme altitude, volatile weather, and route navigation remain key challenges. The climb typically does not require fixed ropes across the entire route, but roping is essential on steeper sections and crevassed areas.

This expedition is ideal for experienced climbers seeking an 8000m peak in a remote and dramatic setting, supported by expert Sherpa and high-altitude logistics.

Trip Notes:

Best Time to Visit:

  • Summer (June to August): Ideal weather and stable conditions in the Karakoram for summit attempts.

Expedition Highlights:

  • Base Camp (4,900m): Located along the Godwin-Austen Glacier with views of K2 and Gasherbrum IV.

  • Concordia (4,600m): Iconic glacier junction often used for acclimatization treks.

  • Baltoro Glacier Trek: A spectacular approach through one of the world’s most scenic glacial corridors.

  • Summit Ridge: A long and exposed route offering panoramic views across the Karakoram.

Climbing Route:

  • Standard Route: West Ridge / West Spur

  • Camp I (~5,700m): Glacier travel, moderate snow slopes

  • Camp II (~6,200m): Rocky outcrop, steeper snow

  • Camp III (~7,000m): Summit push via exposed ridge

Difficulty Level:

  • Technical 8000m climb; prior experience required

  • Involves fixed ropes, crampons, glacier travel

  • Not suitable for beginners or untrained climbers

Key Challenges:

  • Extreme Altitude: Long periods spent above 6,000m require careful acclimatization and oxygen management.

  • Volatile Weather: Sudden snowstorms and whiteouts are common.

  • Summit Ridge: Long traverse at extreme altitude with exposure to wind and cold.

  • Rockfall and Crevasses: Particularly during glacier travel below Camp I and above Camp II.

Training & Preparation:

  • Physical Fitness: Strong cardiovascular endurance and strength for long ascents and load carrying.

  • Altitude Experience: Recommended climbs above 6,500m (e.g., Denali, Aconcagua, Manaslu, or Ama Dablam).

  • Technical Skills: Use of crampons, ice axe arrest, fixed rope ascents, crevasse rescue, and glacier travel.

Safety Considerations:

  • Route Hazards: Includes seracs, avalanches, and rockfall; decisions made daily based on weather and conditions.

  • Climbing Strategy: Multiple rotation climbs between camps to build acclimatization.

  • Emergency Response: Satellite communication and oxygen system ready for high-altitude emergencies.

Permits Required:

  • Climbing Permit for Broad Peak: Issued by the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism.

  • Baltoro Glacier Trekking Permit & Concordia Entry Permit

  • Environmental Tax & Liaison Officer Fee

 

Itineraries

Upon arrival at Islamabad International Airport, our local team will greet you and transfer you to the hotel. The rest of the day is free for rest or exploration. In the evening, we gather for a welcome dinner and expedition briefing. Overnight at the hotel.

Today is reserved for expedition formalities, gear inspections, and final logistics. We complete permit processing with the Ministry of Tourism and meet our liaison officer. Any last-minute equipment purchases can be made locally. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Weather permitting, we take a scenic flight to Skardu with stunning views of Nanga Parbat. If the flight is canceled, we drive via the Karakoram Highway, which takes two days and includes an overnight in Chilas. Overnight at a hotel in Skardu or en route.

 

This day allows for rest, last-minute packing, and organizing expedition loads. You may explore the bazaars or visit the historic Skardu Fort overlooking the valley. Overnight at the hotel.

 

We drive by 4WD jeeps along the Braldu River to Askole, the last permanent village before the glacier. The journey passes through dramatic terrain and landslide-prone tracks. Overnight in tents.

 

Our trek begins with a scenic walk along the Braldu River, crossing suspension bridges and passing small herder shelters. We camp at Jhola beside the river. Overnight in tents.

 

We continue along rocky paths with views of the Trango Towers in the distance. At Paiju, we prepare for our approach onto the Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tents.

 

This day allows rest and acclimatization before stepping onto the glacier. Porters bake bread and resupply. Short hikes nearby offer views of the glacier's snout. Overnight in tents.

 

We ascend onto the Baltoro Glacier, walking on shifting ice, moraine, and scree. Towering granite peaks flank us throughout the day. Overnight in tents.

 

The path winds around glacial pools and icy ridges. We camp at a scenic site near rock slabs with views of the surrounding giants like Great Trango Tower. Overnight in tents.

 

Today we enter the heart of the Baltoro Glacier, surrounded by 7000 m+ peaks. The air becomes thinner, and the landscape becomes purely alpine. Overnight in tents.

 

We trek toward one of the most iconic spots in the Karakoram, Concordia, where the Godwin-Austen and Baltoro glaciers meet. From camp, we enjoy jaw-dropping views of K2, Gasherbrum IV, Broad Peak, and more. Overnight in tents.

 

Our final trekking day brings us to Broad Peak Base Camp, located just below the peak’s massive West Face. We establish our base camp with full logistical setup. Overnight in tents.

 

We take time to rest, acclimatize, and organize equipment. A traditional puja ceremony is held to bless the expedition. Training includes fixed-rope review, glacier navigation, and emergency drills. Overnight in tents.

 

We follow the standard West Ridge/West Spur Route with 3 high camps established:

  • Camp I (~5,700m): Accessed via glacier travel and moderate snow slopes.

  • Camp II (~6,200m): Located on a rocky outcrop above steep snow and crevasse zones.

  • Camp III (~7,000m): High camp on the upper slopes, staging point for summit bid.

From Camp III, we launch our summit push, ascending the long and exposed summit ridge to reach the main peak. The final section involves fixed ropes, steep ice/snow slopes, and challenging route-finding at high altitude.

Climbers conduct multiple rotations to higher camps for acclimatization before the summit attempt. Exact summit days are chosen based on weather windows, typically clear periods with low wind. After summit success, we descend carefully back to Base Camp.

 

We enjoy a much-deserved rest day at Base Camp to recover and celebrate. Porters begin packing expedition equipment for the return journey. Overnight in tents.

 

We begin our descent down the glacier, retracing our steps back through Concordia toward Goro II. Overnight in tents.

 

We continue descending along the glacier past Urdukas, enjoying the reversed perspective of the Karakoram skyline. Overnight in tents.

 

We leave the icy terrain behind and descend to the greener campsite of Paiju, where we enjoy the last evening on the trail with our porter team. Overnight in tents.

 

A gradual descent along the Braldu River brings us to the familiar campsite at Jhola. Overnight in tents. 

 

Our final trekking day takes us back to Askole. Porters and climbers celebrate the successful completion of the mountain phase. Overnight in tents.

 

We board 4WD jeeps and make the rugged journey back to Skardu. After a long and bumpy ride, we relax in the comfort of our hotel. Overnight at the hotel.

 

A buffer day in case of bad weather or delays. You may explore Skardu, rest, or visit local sites like Shigar Fort. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Weather permitting, we take the early morning flight back to Islamabad. If flights are canceled, we begin the 2-day drive down the Karakoram Highway. Overnight at the hotel.

 

If flying, this is a leisure day in Islamabad for sightseeing or rest. If driving, we complete the overland journey and arrive in Islamabad in the evening. Overnight at the hotel.

 

After breakfast, we transfer you to the airport for your international flight. Thank you for joining us on the Broad Peak Expedition, until next time!

 

Cost Includes

Accommodation & Permits

  • Islamabad hotel accommodation (pre- & post-expedition)

  • Skardu hotel accommodation (transit days)

  • All required climbing & trekking permits

  • Liaison Officer charges

Transportation

  • Domestic flights (Islamabad – Skardu – Islamabad)

  • Jeep transportation from Skardu to Askole and return

  • All cargo and gear transport by porter or mule

  • Airport transfers (domestic & international)

Expedition Logistics & Personnel

  • Experienced Expedition Leader & High-Altitude Sherpas

  • Pakistani support staff including porters and cooks

  • Liaison Officer and his logistics

  • Insurance (medical/rescue) for all staff & porters

  • Staff wages, gear, meals, and accommodation

Accommodation & Tents

  • Teahouse/hotel accommodation in Islamabad & Skardu

  • Tent accommodation during the trek and at Base Camp

  • Dining tent, kitchen tent, shower/toilet tents at Base Camp

  • High-altitude tents for upper camps

  • Foam mattresses and personal tents for climbers

Food & Supplies

  • All meals during trek and expedition

  • High-altitude food and energy snacks

  • Cooking fuel (kerosene or gas) for base & high camps

  • Duffel bag for expedition use

Climbing & Safety Equipment

  • Group climbing gear (ropes, anchors, shovels, etc.)

  • Oxygen system (for emergency use only)

  • Medical kit, pulse oximeter, Gamow bag

  • Radios and walkie-talkie sets for communication

  • Satellite phone (pay-per-minute)

Solar power for charging electronics

Cost Excludes

Accommodation & Meals

  • Meals in Islamabad & Skardu (except welcome/farewell dinners)

  • Additional food & snacks beyond the expedition ration

  • Bottled beverages, alcohol, and personal supplies

Personal Equipment & Gear

  • Personal climbing gear (boots, harness, crampons, etc.)

  • Personal clothing, sleeping bags, and down suits

  • Personal medical kit

Communication & Technology

  • Personal use of mobile, satellite, or internet

  • Filming permits and drone registration (if applicable)

Insurance & Medical Costs

  • Personal travel, health, and rescue insurance

  • Emergency evacuation by helicopter

  • Medical treatment or hospitalization fees

Additional Transportation & Services

  • Any transportation or accommodation beyond itinerary

  • Tips for staff, porters, and guides (expected)

  • Climbing Sherpa summit bonus ($800 minimum)

  • Extra porters or guides beyond included ratio

Customs & Visa

  • Pakistan entry visa fee

  • Customs duty for personal or imported expedition equipment

Miscellaneous

  • International airfare

  • Personal expenses (laundry, tips, souvenirs, etc.)

  • Any additional services not mentioned in the inclusion list

 

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