TICINO TREKS

Baruntse Peak Expedition (7,129 m)
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Baruntse Peak Expedition (7,129 m)

Baruntse Peak Expedition (7,129 m)

Country

Nepal

Duration

34 days

Max Altitude

7,129 m

Group Size

2 - 15 Person

Difficulty

extreme

Best Seasons

Spring

Description

Baruntse (7,152m) is one of Nepal’s most stunning and challenging peaks, situated in the heart of the Himalayas between the Everest and Makalu ranges. Known for its symmetrical summit and technical climbing challenges, the Baruntse Expedition offers climbers a perfect blend of high-altitude trekking and technical mountaineering. The ascent involves navigating crevasses, ice cliffs, and steep snow slopes, making it a rewarding experience for experienced mountaineers. The Baruntse Climb is particularly popular during the Baruntse Autumn 2025 season, when weather conditions are most favorable.

This 34-day journey begins with a scenic flight to Lukla, followed by trekking through the remote Hinku Valley and crossing high-altitude passes. The Baruntse Trekking Route includes acclimatization days and a strategic climbing schedule to ensure a safe and successful ascent. Climbers will also summit Mera Peak (6,470m) as part of the acclimatization process. The return route includes crossing the technical Amphu Laptsa Pass (5,845m) before descending into the Khumbu region and concluding in Lukla.

The Baruntse Base Camp and Baruntse High Camp serve as critical staging points for the Baruntse Summit Push, where climbers prepare for the final ascent. The climb involves traversing the Baruntse Glacier and navigating the Baruntse Icefall, requiring the use of Baruntse Fixed Ropes and specialized Baruntse Climbing Gear. Expert Baruntse Climbing Guides and Baruntse Sherpa Support teams provide logistical and technical assistance, ensuring safety and efficiency throughout the expedition. Baruntse Oxygen Supply is available for climbers during the high-altitude sections of the climb.

The Baruntse Mountaineering experience is not only about the climb but also about immersing oneself in Nepal’s rich mountain culture. The Baruntse Himalaya offers breathtaking views of Everest, Makalu, and Lhotse, making it a bucket-list destination for adventure enthusiasts. The Baruntse Climbing Difficulty is rated as high, requiring prior mountaineering experience and proper preparation.

The Baruntse Expedition Cost varies depending on the level of support and services provided, but it typically includes the Baruntse Climbing Permit, logistics, and expert guidance. The Baruntse Climbing Season is best during spring and autumn, when Baruntse Weather Conditions are most stable. Whether you're aiming for the Baruntse Ascent or simply exploring the Baruntse Trekking Route, this expedition promises an unforgettable adventure in the heart of the Himalayas.

Trip Notes

Best Season for Climbing

  • Autumn (September-November): Stable weather, clear skies, and moderate temperatures.

  • Spring (April-May): Warmer temperatures, ideal conditions for climbing and trekking.

Experience Required

  • Prior experience in high-altitude trekking and mountaineering is necessary.

  • Familiarity with ice climbing, rope techniques, and glacier travel is beneficial.

Accommodation

  • Lodges & Tea Houses: Available in lower altitude regions.

  • Tented Camps: Used at higher altitudes and during the climbing period.

Permits Required

  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

  • Makalu-Barun National Park Entry Permit

  • Climbing Permit for Baruntse (issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association)

Safety & Acclimatization

  • The itinerary includes multiple rest days to aid acclimatization and minimize altitude sickness risk.

  • Experienced Sherpa guides will provide support during technical sections and summit attempts.

Physical Fitness

  • Climbers should have excellent cardiovascular endurance and muscular strength.

  • Training should include long hikes, altitude exposure, and technical climbing practice.

Cultural Highlights

  • Experience the vibrant Sherpa culture in the Khumbu region.

  • Visit historic monasteries such as Tengboche and Chhukung.

  • Enjoy breathtaking Himalayan landscapes, including Everest, Makalu, and Lhotse.

This Baruntse Expedition promises a thrilling and rewarding mountaineering experience, blending adventure, cultural immersion, and technical climbing challenges.

 

Itineraries

Upon arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m), a representative will receive you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer you to your hotel in the heart of the city. The afternoon is free for rest or light exploration around the lively streets of Thamel. In the evening, there’s a welcome meeting with your climbing team and guides. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Today is fully dedicated to preparation and logistics. You’ll process necessary climbing permits and finalize your gear with help from the support team. This is also a chance to visit gear shops in Thamel and ensure all equipment is in order. Briefings about the expedition route, risks, and expectations will be conducted. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Your team leader will attend the official expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism in the morning, typically lasting 2–3 hours. During this time, the rest of the team continues with packing and personal preparations. Any final equipment rentals or purchases can be arranged. The remainder of the day is at leisure. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Catch an early morning 35-minute flight to Lukla (2,840m), known for its dramatic mountain runway. After a light breakfast, begin your trek with a steady uphill walk for 3–4 hours to Chutanga, a small clearing in the forest. This is a quiet, lesser-used trail away from the main Everest route. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Begin the day early with a steep ascent to the Zatrwa La Pass (4,600m), which can take about 6 hours. The climb is physically demanding but offers superb views of Dudh Kunda peaks. After reaching the pass, descend through rocky slopes to Zatra Phu. The air is thinner and colder here. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Trek down into the Hinku Valley, gradually descending through moss-covered forests and riverbanks. The trail is wild and peaceful, taking 5 to 6 hours through high-alpine landscapes. Arrive in Kothe, a remote village used by yak herders. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Follow the west bank of the Hinku Khola river as the trail ascends steadily through juniper shrubs and alpine pastures. Trekking for about 5 hours, you pass small tea houses and yak enclosures before reaching Thangnak. Views of Mera Peak become more pronounced. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Climb steeply up to Khare, the base camp for Mera Peak. The trail crosses scree slopes and glacial debris, taking 4 to 5 hours. As you gain altitude, the terrain becomes more barren. Upon arrival, you'll rest and prepare gear for the upcoming climb. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Today is crucial for acclimatization. Short hikes to higher elevations help your body adjust to the altitude. You’ll also practice basic mountaineering techniques, including using crampons and harnesses on ice. Final gear checks are done with your climbing guide. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Start early and ascend to Mera High Camp, taking around 5 to 6 hours. The route crosses the Mera Glacier and involves some rope work over crevasse zones. High Camp offers stunning sunset views over Everest, Makalu, and Lhotse. Camp is established on a sheltered rocky ridge. Overnight in a tent.

 

Summit day begins at 2:00 a.m. with a long, steady climb up Mera Peak's broad glacier. After 6 to 8 hours of ascent, reach the summit and enjoy panoramic views. Descend carefully and continue walking for another 3–4 hours to reach Khongma Dingma. Overnight in a lodge or tent.

 

Trek through remote, high-altitude terrain with minimal vegetation. This 6-hour journey takes you to Seto Pokhari, a sacred glacial lake rarely visited by trekkers. The trail is stark and windswept, offering a glimpse of Baruntse’s western flanks. Overnight in a tented camp.

 

Continue trekking over glacial moraines and ridges for around 5 hours. Reach Baruntse Base Camp, where you’ll establish your main tented camp. This will serve as your home for the next two weeks. Begin acclimatization walks and prepare climbing gear. Overnight in a tented camp.

 

Spend the next 12 days establishing Camp I (6,100m) and Camp II (6,400m), practicing glacier travel, and acclimatizing. The climb includes steep ice faces, fixed ropes, and technical snow climbing. The summit push takes 10–14 hours round-trip, depending on weather and team strength. Nights are spent at various high-altitude camps.

 

Descend for 5–6 hours from Baruntse Base Camp to the foot of the Amphu Laptsa Pass. The trail includes lateral moraines and glacier travel. Prepare technical gear for the pass crossing the next morning. Overnight in a tent.

 

Begin pre-dawn and climb steep ice slopes of the Amphu Laptsa Pass using fixed lines and crampons. The ascent and descent take about 8–9 hours. After crossing, descend into the Imja Valley and reach Chhukung, a small lodge village. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Trek for 5 hours on a classic Everest trail, descending gradually through yak pastures and juniper forests. Reach the spiritual center of Tengboche, home to the region’s most important monastery. Enjoy views of Ama Dablam and Everest. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Descend into the forested Dudh Koshi valley, passing rhododendron groves and waterfalls. After 5 hours of walking, reach Namche Bazaar, the bustling Sherpa capital. Enjoy bakeries, cafés, and a hot shower. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Your final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi River for about 6–7 hours. Pass familiar villages like Monjo and Phakding before reaching Lukla. Celebrate the end of your long expedition with your team. Overnight in a lodge.

 

Catch a morning 35-minute flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu. On arrival, transfer to your hotel for a well-earned rest. Enjoy the rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Explore some of Kathmandu’s iconic UNESCO World Heritage Sites, such as Boudhanath Stupa, Pashupatinath Temple, and Bhaktapur Durbar Square. You may also visit Patan or take a cultural walk. Return to the hotel in the evening. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Use this buffer day to rest, revisit any attractions, or go shopping. Your expedition leader will attend the final debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism. In the evening, celebrate your success with a farewell dinner and cultural show. Overnight at the hotel.

 

Depending on your flight schedule, transfer to the international airport. Bid farewell to Nepal and depart with unforgettable memories of Mera Peak, Baruntse, and the great Himalayan adventure.

 

Cost Includes

  • Accommodation & Permits

    • 5-night stay at a 3-star hotel in Kathmandu

    • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

    • Baruntse and Mera Peak Climbing Permits

    Transportation

    • Domestic flights (Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu) for both clients and staff

    • Ground transportation for expedition logistics

    • Airport transfers (International & domestic)

    Expedition Logistics & Personnel

    • Government Liaison Officer charges

    • Expedition Guide

    • Cook & kitchen staff

    • Assistant Climbing Guide (1 per client)

    • Porters to carry loads & baggage

    • Porter’s equipment & insurance

    • Insurance (medical & rescue) for all staff & porters

    • Salaries, lodging, food, and wages for staff & porters

    Accommodation & Tents

    • Teahouse/lodge accommodation during the trek

    • Individual tent (with mattress & pillow)

    • Dining tent, kitchen tent, store tent, toilet & shower tent

    • High-altitude tents for climbing camps

    Food & Supplies

    • All meals for members & staff during the expedition & trekking

    • Quality high-altitude dried food & individual packet food

    • EPI gas with burner for high camps

    • Oxygen cylinder & mask regulator for emergencies

    • Duffel bag for packing climbing/trekking gear

    Climbing & Safety Equipment

    • All necessary group climbing gear (excluding personal climbing gear)

    • First Aid Kit for all

    Communication & Power Supply

    • Walkie-talkie set

    • Satellite phone (pay call basis)

    • Solar panel for charging (camera, sat phone, dining tent lighting)

Cost Excludes

  • Accommodation & Meals

    • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)

    • Additional food & drinks beyond standard meals, including snacks, packed food, energy drinks, aerated drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, and chocolates.

    Personal Equipment & Gear

    • Clothing, packing bags, and personal trekking/climbing gear

    • Personal medical kit

    Communication & Technology

    • Costs related to landlines, mobile phones, satellite phones, internet, walkie-talkies, and filming permits (if using special cameras).

    Insurance & Medical Costs

    • Rescue, repatriation, hospitalization, medical tests & medicines

    • Travel insurance, medical insurance & emergency rescue evacuation

    • Helicopter rescue services

    Additional Transportation & Services

    • Only transportation listed in the itinerary is covered

    • Extra travel distances will be charged

    • Any additional staff not mentioned in the package

    Climbing Guide Summit Bonus

    • Summit bonus for Sherpa guide ($800 USD minimum per guide)

    • Nepal customs duty for the import of expedition equipment

    • Nepal entry visa fee (easily available on arrival)

    Miscellaneous Expenses

    • Personal expenses such as laundry services, gifts, souvenirs, tips, airfare for international flights, and any extra services, products, or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.

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