Saldim-West Peak (6,374m) is a relatively unknown and remote mountaineering challenge in the Makalu-Barun National Park, providing climbers a more hidden and less explored adventure. This 23-day climbing itinerary follows a remote trekking route through traditional villages, lush forests, and high-altitude landscapes, before reaching the Saldim Base Camp for the summit ascent. The Makalu region is home to some of Nepal’s most stunning peaks, including Makalu (8,485m), Chamlang, and Baruntse. The journey also includes a visit to Makalu Base Camp (4,870m), making this an incredible adventure for experienced trekkers and climbers.

This Himalayan expedition is a highlight of mountaineering in Nepal, combining high-altitude trekking with technical climbing. The Saldim Peak summit and West Peak ascent require careful altitude acclimatization, glacier crossing, and the use of proper mountaineering gear. Sherpa guides play a crucial role in ensuring safety and success, providing expertise in expedition logistics and mountain rescue services. The base camp setup is strategically planned to support the summit push, with high-altitude camps established along the trekking route. 

Saldim-West Peak offers breathtaking Himalayan landscapes and a unique opportunity for adventure tourism in a remote and less-explored region. The 23-day itinerary includes mountaineering training and preparation, ensuring climbers are ready for the challenges of this alpine expedition.

Travel Notes:

Best Time to Trek & Climb

• Spring (April-May): Best season with stable weather and clear skies.

• Autumn (October-November): Ideal for climbing with dry conditions and great visibility.

Permits Required

• Makalu-Barun National Park Entry Permit

• Saldim-West Peak Climbing Permit (Issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association, NMA)

Experience Needed

• Previous trekking and basic mountaineering experience required.

• Ability to use ice axes, crampons, and ropes for glacier travel.

• High-altitude trekking fitness is essential.

Acclimatization & Altitude Sickness

• Rest and acclimatization days at Yangle Kharka (3,650m) and Langmale Kharka help adaptation.

• Slow ascent with proper hydration and rest is important for summit success.

Route Overview

• The adventure starts with a flight to Tumlingtar, followed by a drive and trek through Khandbari, Gola, and Yangle Kharka.

• The climbing period (Days 11-13) includes a summit attempt at Saldim-West Peak (6,374m).

• After the climb, the route continues to Makalu Base Camp before trekking back through Tashi Gaun and Num, then flying to Kathmandu.

Accommodation

• Tea-house lodges in lower elevations.

• Tented camps in high-altitude sections.

Duration & Camps

• 23 days, including trekking, acclimatization, summit attempt, and return to Kathmandu.

• Tented camps at higher altitudes near the Saldim Base Camp.

Safety Tips

• Acclimatize properly to avoid altitude sickness.

• Use experienced guides and porters for a safe and successful climb.

• Be prepared for unpredictable weather conditions.

Cultural Highlights

• Explore traditional Rai and Sherpa villages along the route.

• Experience remote Himalayan lifestyles in the Makalu region